With the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light, Omega put its focus on a sporty look and innovative light weight. A fresh look at every detail resulted in a number of horological innovations. The hand-wound movement is Omega’s first titanium caliber — and implementation was no easy feat. After waiting over two years to get our hands on the watch, our editors had the opportunity to do a full hands-on test.

The “Ultra Light,” as we refer to this Omega watch, rather than by its full name, weighs only 55 grams on its black textile strap. According to our precision scale, the rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp bumps its weight up to 76 grams. For comparison, the Seamaster Planet Ocean with a titanium case, ceramic bezel and rubber strap weighs 104 grams, or about a third more. This is a valid comparison since the Ultra Light is made of exactly the same materials as the Planet Ocean while there are no comparable Aqua Terra models (apart from a couple of GoodPlanet versions). Titanium is the primary material used for the Ultra Light case. Not just any titanium — an alloy known as Gamma Titanium is used for the mid-section, the ring for the sapphire crystal threaded caseback and the crown. This is an absolute first for Omega.

This unusual material is an intermetallic compound of titanium and aluminum, also known by its scientific name: titanium aluminide (TiAl). Named after the third letter of the Greek alphabet, Gamma Titanium — or Γ-TiAl — consists of 50 to 55 percent aluminum, hence its light weight. TiAl-based alloys originated in 1970 but have only been used since the recent turn of the century.

Due to its robust properties and low density, titanium aluminide has found applications in aviation and aerospace as well as for sports equipment and in the automobile industry. Titanium aluminide is lighter and harder than conventional titanium. A discreetly engraved “Γ-TiAl” on the back of the upper left lug notes the use of this special material.

Titanium Grade 5, a much more common and the most widely used titanium alloy, is used for the sandblasted dial. This material is also light in weight, corrosion-resistant, biochemically neutral, and able to withstand extreme temperatures. Titanium Grade 5 is very similar in its light gray color to stainless steel and also goes well with the Ultra Light’s titanium aluminide case.

Omega conducted extensive research and testing with the goal of minimizing the amount of material needed for the dial. This, in turn, has reduced the overall weight of the watch without detracting from the recognizable look of the timepiece. The horizontal striping on the dial, which is typical for Seamaster models, makes its mark here in negative relief. Also recognizable without a doubt, are the triangular applied hour markers, which taper toward the center of the dial, and the striking hands with arrowhead tips on the minute and second hands. The second hand is made of aluminum — red aluminum for our test watch, which matches the Seamaster name below the raised Omega logo at 12 o’clock, the quarter-hour numerals on the minute or seconds track on the edge of the dial, and the contrasting stitching on the rubber or textile strap (also available in a choice of blue or green).

A ceramic bezel frames the titanium dial. This is a preferred material at Omega because it is especially scratch-resistant. It was developed in a unique color for the Ultra Light so that the bezel coordinates with the titanium case and titanium dial. Depending on the viewing angle and the angle of light, the fixed ring sometimes appears to be the same color, even though it is slightly darker than the case mid-section and dial.

When viewed from above, the case appears streamlined and symmetrical. The right flank, which is virtually invisible from this perspective, increases the size of the case by 2.5 mm, to a generous 43.5 mm across when measured from 9 to 3 o’clock, but only 41 mm from 12 to 6 o’clock. When viewed from the side, however, the diamond-shaped flank is a feature that stands out and accommodates the attractive crown.

Because this operating element is deeply seated in the flank, one wonders how to access it. This technology is unique: you press the crown like a push button to release it and allow it to glide out from its recess. This makes interacting with the manual-winding feature an exceptional experience in itself, and because the Ultra Light is a hand-wound watch, it can be enjoyed every day. With its three-day power reserve, it’s not necessary to wind the Ultra Light every day — but it’s tempting to use the telescopic crown once a day, or more.

Other operating elements are more conventional, and also slightly more difficult to use. The Gamma Titanium crown has to be pulled into the middle and outer position in the conventional way, with considerable effort and using your fingernails. The Ultra Light has no date display, so there is no quick-date adjustment in the middle position. Instead, there is the practical time-zone function that Omega adds to almost all of its newer movements. The hour hand can be moved forward or back as needed without affecting the precise setting of the time.

When traveling to a different time zone, this extremely practical and modern feature allows you to set the current local time very easily. And after winding the watch to the point of mild resistance, the crown turns back just a bit — and then a light push will return it to its secure position within the case.

If the crown was previously pulled to the middle or hand-setting position, you will hear an audible click and know that the crown is back in its original position. From the winding position, the telescopic crown glides just as smoothly back into the case as it exited. This also reveals another nice detail: the red Omega logo can be situated in any direction, exactly as you would like it to be. In contrast to a screw-down crown, the telescopic crown remains movable within the flank.

This unique crown is used to operate a unique movement — the Omega hand-wound Caliber 8928 Ti. As one has come to expect from Omega, this is a METAS-approved Master Chronometer. This means that the hand-wound movement and the watch have passed a series of tests that show that they are resistant to magnetic fields of at least 15,000 gauss. But because the Ultra Light was designed to be especially lightweight, a number of measures had to be taken with regard to the movement as well. Caliber 8928 Ti is Omega’s first titanium movement. It goes back to Caliber 8900, the first movement certified by METAS as a Master Chronometer, but it is even traceable back to the first chronometer movement with a Co-Axial escapement, Caliber 8500.

With Caliber 8928, not only is the balance wheel made of titanium, but the mainplate and bridges are made of ceramic titanium. This gives the hand-wound movement its coordinating dark-gray color, which is clearly visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its light weight also means there is less friction between the various components.

The free-sprung silicon hairspring vibrates at a rate of 25,200 vph and is powered by two serially arranged barrels for a power reserve of three days. According to Omega, the low weight does not reduce accuracy or performance of the movement, so Omega confidently offers a five year warranty for the Ultra Light. In our extensive testing process, we identified some rate variation, but the values remained within the chronometer range. When fully wound, the watch gained an average of only 1.4 seconds per day on the timing machine, but 2.3 seconds on the wrist with daily winding. The Ultra Light showed greater deviation after 24 hours or longer without winding but never exceeded 4 seconds per day.

A long, narrow needle, with a fine tip worthy of a precision timekeeping unit, points to the small time-unit scale on the dial side. Sometimes you need to turn the Ultra Light just the right way to see the seconds/minutes track around the edge of the dial or move it away from the light to avoid an occasional reflective flash from the polished and brushed finishes on the markers and hands. At night, all these elements glow a bright blue that lasts to a greater or lesser extent, depending on the charge of the Super-LumiNova.

Looking at this watch is always a pleasure and never overwhelming. Quite the opposite: both its size and its subdued color scheme give the Ultra Light a look of gray eminence. It comes on a distinctively patterned black rubber strap with contrasting red, blue or green stitching that matches the second hand and other details on the dial. A few waves on the back of the strap provide ventilation and ensure the best wearing comfort in addition to its lightness.

There will be times you forget you’ve got the Ultra Light on your wrist. The perforated end of the rubber strap is threaded through a titanium folding clasp and held securely in place with a pin. Switch to the additional textile strap if you want it to be even lighter.

The price also raises the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light above the rest of the pack. Even though there is no other directly comparable model, the Seamaster Aqua Terra collection itself offers an entry model in stainless steel (Ref. 220.13.41.21.01.001) priced at $5,400. With its list price of $48,600, a decision for this ultra-lightweight watch is certainly not to be taken lightly.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 M Co-Axial Master Chronometer 41 MM Ultra Light Specs:

Manufacturer: Omega S.A., Stämpflistrasse 96, 2504 Biel/Bienne, Switzerland 

Reference number: 220.92.41.21.06.001 

Functions: Hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, time-zone function 

Movement: In-house movement 8928 Ti based on Omega 8900 automatic, manual winding, chronometer, 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz), 29 jewels, silicon Si 14 hairspring, titanium balance wheel, fine adjustment with regulating weights on balance wheel, Nivachoc shock absorber, 72-hour (3 days) power reserve, diameter = 29 mm, height = 4.2 mm 

Case: Titanium aluminide (Γ-TiAl), domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides (top), sapphire crystal caseback, water resistant to 150 m 

Strap and clasp: Rubber strap with one-sided titanium folding clasp, additional textile strap 

Rate results: Deviation in seconds per 24 hours (Fully wound / after 24 hours)

Dimensions: Diameter = 41.01 mm (from 12 to 6 o’clock), 43.52 mm (from 9 to 3), height = 13.74 mm, lug width = 19.5 (Omega-specific), weight = 76.0 g 

Variations: With dial details and strap stitching in blue (Ref. 220.92.41.21.06.002, $48,600) or in green (Ref. 220.92.41.21.06.003, $48,600) 

Price: $48,600

Scores:

Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Lightweight ergonomic straps, high quality non-allergenic titanium clasp. 9

Case (10): Innovative material: Γ-TiAl, ceramic, two sapphire crystals, excellent workmanship, unique telescopic crown. 9

Dial and hands (10): Light-colored titanium dial, following the conceptual design of the watch; recognizable thanks to the horizontal striping, the hands and the markers. 9

Design (15): Designed with light weight as its ultimate goal with no negative impact to its look; clearly recognizable as a Seamaster Aqua Terra. 14

Legibility (5): Occasional reflections on the markers and hands, Super-LumiNova strength is limited. 4

Operation (5):
Innovative telescopic crown, the hand winding position works very well but it is more difficult to access the other crown positions, excellent clasp. 4

Wearing comfort (5): Very good wearing comfort thanks to the low weight and excellent ergonomic design. 5

Movement (20): Master Chronometer is one of today’s highest quality movements, the titanium movement matches the overall concept of this watch. 19

Rate results (10): The hand-wound watch runs with minor variations depending on the winding state, but always remains within chronometer specs and always in the plus range. 9

Overall value (10): Omega has created a “talking piece” with a very high innovation level, but at a perplexingly high price. 7

TOTAL: 89 points

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For the exterior, Nivada opts for satin-brushed steel with a 38mm diameter. Completing its moderate footprint, the watch wears 12.9mm high on the wrist. The unidirectional bezel is a black ceramic insert with bold contrasting white minute markers and tick marks. On the reverse, the caseback is engraved with an image of a penguin along with the brand and collection names. With its screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, the case offers water resistance up to 200 meters. 

For the dial, Nivada opts for a crisp black hue as the backdrop for the recreation of the original layout. The hands and indexes are a patinated “cream latte” shade that contrast the dark dial quite well. Honoring the previous dial design even further, the newcomer includes discrete cross hairs marking the four quadrants of the dial. The date window is located at 3 o’clock and is topped with a magnifier to increase its legibility. Completing the retro-inspired aesthetic, the Nivada Automatic logo is situated proudly at 12 o’clock, while the Antarctic-Diver name is written in script at 6 o’clock. 

Ticking inside of the Antarctic Diver is the caliber SOPROD P024, a three-hand self-winding mechanism. Capable of displaying hours, minutes, and seconds, the movement has a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. 

The new Nivada Antarctic Diver retails for $900. It is available with five strap variations and five bracelet variations, all available on the brand’s website. 

To learn more, visit Nivada here.

This robust mission timepiece was originally developed together with the German Sea Battalion to stand the tests of high waters. Thus, the crystal protecting the highly legible blue dial with Superluminova coated hands and indices is 2.5mm thick.

The titanium case is water resistant to 300 meters thanks to a screw-in crown and has a prominent diameter of 45mm. Inside ticks a self-winding movement based on Sellita SW 330, which is equipped with the brand’s genuine, highly shock-resistant woodpecker neck regulation and own rotor.

The movement is assembled and regulated in Glashütte and offers a stop-second function, quick-date correction, and a power reserve of 56 hours. Its high-quality finishes and decorations can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back.

Pricing for the Mühle-Glashütte Seebattaillon GMT is marked at approximately $3,300 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Mühle-Glashütte, here.

Sports, like so many things in life, are a matter of taste and talent. One person may choose to compete in the Ironman challenge while another considers chess to be a sport. The latter is in good company because the International Olympic Committee agrees with him.

Eager to woo adherents of both viewpoints, A. Lange & Söhne advertises its new Odysseus, our test watch, as a “sporty, elegant watch for very active people.” The elite manufacture has given this new watch plenty of features that make it more robust and enlarge its field of activity. Choosing stainless steel as the material for its case already helps quite a bit because this alloy is much less susceptible to scratches than the precious metals gold and platinum, which Lange has used exclusively in its watches. And unlike Lange’s typical crocodile-skin straps, this model’s stainless-steel bracelet doesn’t mind a dip in a lake. Furthermore, wearing this watch while enjoying activities that raise a sweat doesn’t mean you’ll have to pay €290 plus VAT (around $375 total) to replace a stained but otherwise high-quality leather strap.

A Supple Stainless-steel Bracelet with a Sophisticated Clasp
High temperatures or physical exertion can also cause your wrist to swell slightly, but that’s not a problem for Lange’s Odysseus thanks to the clever adjustment system in its clasp. The circular logo on the buckle can be pressed down, thereby lengthening the strap in fine increments to add a maximum of 7 mm. Simply push the strap back into the buckle to shorten it. This practical mechanism works very well and we used it more often than we’d initially expected.

Alongside stainless steel as the material for the case and bracelet, the case’s increased resistance to pressure qualifies this watch to participate in a wider range of activities. The Odysseus is the first Lange watch that can withstand pressure of 12 bar, which corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 120 meters. Strictly speaking, the pressure resistance to a depth of 30 meters that Lange typically provides isn’t even suitable for a shower or a swimming pool. Thanks to its screw-down crown, the Odysseus can easily survive a dive from the deck of a sailboat. A sporty watch should be easy to read, both in the light and in the dark. The Odysseus meets this requirement with luminous material on its hour hand, its minutes hand and its large indexes; only the small seconds hand remains dark.

With all of these new features, is the Odysseus still recognizable as a Lange watch? There’s no cause for concern here because the manufacture has retained important characteristic features. This applies to the lance-shaped hands and to the seconds hand with its skeletonized counterweight, to the typeface used for the calibrated scales and, to a certain extent, to the case, for example, the shape of the lugs and the polished bezel. Of course, Lange’s big date display also contributes to recognizability. The large width of the bracelet at the lugs and the comparatively delicate hand for the small seconds admittedly take some getting used to, but all in all, Lange has adroitly combined new and old design features.

The Blue Dial — a Work of Art in Itself
The dial is a work of art: both the wreath of hour indexes and the subdial for the seconds are grooved, while the inner part of both the main dial and the subdial have rough surfaces. The bar-shaped hour indexes are made of white gold and each one not only slopes downward toward the center of the dial, but also has an M-shaped cross section and is filled with luminous material along its midline. The satin-finished minutes scale runs along the flange — a practical solution, and a somewhat unusual one for Lange. The red numeral 60 on the flange adds a dash of sportiness and also recalls the red numeral 12 that Lange used on rare anniversary models with enamel dials.

Also new, the day of the week appears in a window positioned directly opposite the double aperture for the big date. Like the dial, the disks for these two displays are blue — a small but important detail that’s all too often ignored. And when it’s overlooked, the mismatched color scheme detracts from the harmony of the design. In addition, the typeface chosen for the displays is the same one that spells out the brand’s name on the dial.

Lange not only developed the mechanism for the day-of-the-week display; it also redesigned the mechanism for the big date because the latter is now located near the edge of the dial, instead of closer to the middle as before. To achieve the largest possible display area, the big date indicator puts the digits into a ones ring and a 10s disk instead of in the previous cross shape. Furthermore, the ones ring is now larger and runs around the periphery of the movement, so it’s marked with the digits 0 to 9 twice.

The mechanism for the day of the week and the big date is propelled by the hour wheel, which completes one full circle every 12 hours. Its motion is transmitted to the 24-hour wheel, which requires one full day to finish each 360° rotation. The 24-hour wheel directly advances the day-of-the-week indicator. At the same time, it also propels a program wheel that guides the proper progress of the ones ring and the 10s disk. The program wheel powers the gear train of the ones ring so that it advances by one increment per day. An exception occurs when the 31st day of an expiring month transitions into the first day of a new month, in which case a missing tooth in the program wheel assures that the gear shift is skipped once. The program wheel also propels the gear train of the 10s disk every 10 days. Only when changing from the 3 to the empty field does switching take place after two days rather than 10. To correct the date, Lange has integrated two pushers into a component that’s likely to be mistaken for a crown protector: the upper pusher advances the date and the lower one resets the day of the week by one day. These pushers, disguised as crown protectors, are easy to operate and each has a precise pressure point. It’s extremely unlikely that they would be triggered unintentionally. The special design also makes it possible to switch both indicators forward or backward by turning the crown clockwise or counterclockwise beyond the midnight position. The mechanism cannot be damaged by incorrect use. In total, the calendar system consists of 99 components.

A New Movement, from Automatic Winding to The Balance
Lange didn’t merely redesign the calendar function; the entire movement was engineered specially for the Odysseus by the Glashütte-based company. Caliber L155.1 Datomatic with unidirectional winding rotor builds up a 50-hour power reserve. With a diameter of 32.9 mm, it’s the right size for this watch and, in addition to automatic winding, it offers other features that are appropriate for a sports watch movement. For example, it’s the first Lange caliber with a balance paced at the speedy frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Thanks to this faster pace, shocks and vibrations exert less of an effect on the accuracy of the movement. To minimize air turbulence at this higher frequency, the engineers designed a smooth balance wheel with four countersunk regulating screws rather than relying on a classic screw balance or a balance with regulating weights on top of its wheel.

Lange also designed the bearing of the balance wheel for optimum robustness. Instead of a cock, which is borne on only one side, the balance of the Datomatic is supported by a bridge, which is screwed on both sides. Lange’s typical swan’s neck fine adjustment for the beat has been replaced by a similar construction in which a vertical eccentric screw replaces the horizontal one.

When it comes to embellishments, Lange has upheld its time-honored practices. The balance’s bridge is manually engraved with floral motifs, its edges are beveled and polished, and its screws are blued. There’s a three-quarter plate and at least one bearing jewel in a screwed gold setting, which accepts the pivot of the escape-wheel’s shaft and thus defines the heart of the watch in a very traditional way. Only the striped pattern has slightly wider stripes than usual. Every detail embodies horological artistry at the highest level, just as one would expect to encounter in a Lange timepiece.

A Genuine Lange Watch with an Expanded Field Of Application
The rate values are equally impressive. The Odysseus that we tested gained only 1 second per day on the wrist. Our timing machine reconfirmed the accurate timekeeping and calculated an average daily deviation of +1.1 seconds with a fully wound mainspring. The amplitude and thus also the accuracy decrease significantly after 24 hours, but this is less relevant for an automatic watch. What is important, however, is the wearing comfort. When it comes to metal bracelets, you sometimes have to make compromises, but Lange’s new bracelet lies very smoothly on the wrist and doesn’t pinch any hair. In addition to the quick adjustment mechanism mentioned earlier, the bracelet can also be shortened easily. Two recessed pushers on the back and toward the outside of each link can be pressed to remove individual links.

Lange modified the design of the bracelet and the clasp. The ingenious extension system in the buckle and the construction of the bracelet were developed by IWC for its Pilot’s chronographs. (Lange and IWC are both part of the Richemont Group.) The workmanship is perfect throughout the watch, with the sole exception of milling marks that weren’t polished off on the inner sides of the clasp’s hinges. Beveled and polished edges are a distinguishing feature of high-quality watches. Lange accordingly bevels and polishes the edges of parts in the watch’s movement, case and bracelet. These shiny planes contrast beautifully with satin-finished surfaces and add a distinctive sporty touch to the five rows of links that comprise the stainless-steel bracelet.

The Odysseus is therefore a genuine Lange watch — and readily recognizable as such —thanks to the movement’s technology and the typically high quality of the workmanship and embellishments. Furthermore, the manufacture from Glashütte has significantly expanded the range of applications for its watches with this first serially produced model in stainless steel, which offers a case made from a robust mater-ial and with greater pressure resistance, in combination with an excellent metal bracelet equipped with a quick-adjustment mechanism. These features are well worthwhile — not only on a sailing trip, but also on a summer day beside an invitingly cool lake.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: A. Lange Uhren GmbH, Ferdinand-Adolph-Lange-Platz 1, 01768, Glashütte, Germany
Reference number: 363.179
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, big date, day of the week
Movement: In-house Caliber L155.1, automatic, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, Lange hairspring, Glucydur balance, Kif shock absorption, fine adjustment via four regulating screws, the beat can be finely adjusted via an eccentric and a swan’s neck spring, 50-hour power reserve, diameter = 32.9 mm, height = 6.20 mm
Case: Stainless steel, sapphire crystals rated 9 on the Mohs scale above the dial and in the back, water resistant to 120 meters
Bracelet­­­­ and cla­­sp: Stainless steel, secured deployant buckle with integrated mechanism to finely adjust the bracelet’s length
Rate results (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours):
On the wrist +1.1
Dial up +0.4 / +2.2
Dial down +3.3 / +3.4
Crown up -1.3 / -6.8
Crown down +2.5 / -4.0
Crown left +0.4 / -6.3
Greatest deviation 4.6 / 10.2
Average deviation +1.1 / -2.3
Average amplitude:
Flat positions 278° / 238°
Hanging positions 245° / 196°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40.5 mm, height = 11.1 mm, weight = 146.0 g
Price: $28,800

For a close look at the newest version of the Odysseus, in white gold with an integrated, sporty rubber strap, click here.

The M2 Seven Seas S Black Limited Edition is powered by the self-winding Sellita SW 200 whose oscillating weight is upgraded with Tutima’s gold seal. The bracelet is made of waterproof impregnated calfskin and has an underlining of rubber, which further increases its protection against moisture.

Pricing for the Tutima Glashütte M2 Seven Seas S Black Limited Edition is marked at approximately $2,300 when converted to USD.

To learn more, visit Tutima Glashütte, here.