It is a nod to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s so-called “perpétuelle watches,” which were equipped with an à secousses (moving) oscillating weight that reacted to the wearer’s body movements and thus automatically wound the mechanism as they walked. Legend has it that some of them were equipped with calendar functions and they were also among the first be adorned with guilloché dials. The new Classique Quantième Perpétuel combines all these ingredients into a sophisticated perpetual calendar, which also features some modern-day cutting-edge achievements, such as silicon technology.

The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern. Located between 1 and 2 o’clock, the moon phase has been designed to provide a strong sense of realism, notably thanks to its hand-hammered surface. It appears in front of a blue-lacquered sky with tiny stars as entourage. The day, date, and year indications are harmoniously placed at the base of the dial. A quarter-circle between 10 and 11 o’clock indicates the months via a retrograde hand, while the pointer date sits at 6 o’clock. The hours and minutes are indicated by the traditional eccentric “moon” tip watch hands in blued steel. The secret Breguet signature, created by the founder in 1795, appears between 11 and 12 o’clock as well as between 12 and 1 o’clock. 

At just 4.5 mm thick, the self-winding 502.3.P caliber beating at a frequency of 3 Hertz remains one of Breguet’s thinnest. It is designed to provide a high level of performance despite its thinness. Its barrel is open, contributing to its slenderness while guaranteeing constant energy. Its gold oscillating weight is off-centered to provide maximum space for the movement’s main components, enabling it to be integrated to a minimum thickness. The surface is rhodium-plated. The 502.3.P is equipped with a flat silicon balance-spring and an inverted straight-line escapement with silicon horns. It offers a 45-hour power reserve.

Naturally, Breguet wants to showcase this genuine movement through an exhibition case back, which reveals a hand-engraved gold oscillating weight. It is on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn motif that mirrors the one on the dial. The bridges that are adorned with Côtes de Genève, and the mechanism also sports other finely finished components such as chamfered edges. This traditional craftsmanship is performed by the artisans in Breguet’s manufacture located in the heart of the Vallée de Joux. 

Pricing for the Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel is marked at $80,200 for both executions.

To learn more, visit Breguet, here.

Blue works well with a wide variety of watches, and the Piaget Polo is no exception. The blue obsidian has some grey tones to it, which makes it a nice balance between being elegant and sportive, precisely the sweet spot Piaget is aiming at with the Polo collection to begin with. Apart from the craftsmanship needed to make it, one of the most enticing aspects of a stone dial is that no two are alike. The texture is always different, giving you a unique watch.

Piaget combined the dial with a bezel set with brilliant-cut blue sapphires in the bezel. While I can surely enjoy the use of gemstones on watches, I wasn’t sold on the concept with this particular watch when I saw the embargoed pictures. In real life, I have to alter my opinion about it. The blue sapphires work well with the dial, as they share the same hue but complement each other by delivering it differently. As the blue sapphires are not all the same size, they emphasize the cushion-shaped case of the dial, which gives a very pleasing effect.

In terms of movement, there also nothing to complain. Caliber 1255P is only 4mm thick, allowing the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar to have an overall height of just 8mm, with a diameter of 42mm. Given the fact that it is features a perpetual calendar complication and automatic winding, this is quite the achievement. The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian is priced at $114,000

For more info, visit Piaget, here

Comprising of 256 parts, this workhorse features a special design that positions the functions of the perpetual calendar, which are usually placed on three separate levels, on a single plane. This new technical feat led to the development of two patented innovations: the integration of the end-of-month cam with the date wheel and the association of the month cam with the month wheel. To further reduce thickness, the dial also acts as a bridge.  

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin introduces a new smoky-blue dial developed especially for this model. Light in the center and dark around the rim, it is decorated with a sunburst motif endowing it with luminous aesthetics. The deep background hue make the calendar indications, month and leap year at 3 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock, day and day/night indicator at 9 o’clock all the more legible.  

The moon phase at 12 o’clock is the only indication whose design has not been modified from the previous model. The dial remains punctuated by twelve luminescent applied hour-markers and two central hands, likewise luminescent. 

Pricing for the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is available upon request.

To learn more, visit Audemars Piguet, here.

This starts with a 42mm large case crafted from stainless steel. Perpetual calendars housed in cases made from this material are still relatively rare, as its prestige usually demands precious metal cases. Piaget combined this with a comfortable stainless steel bracelet that can also be swapped for a rubber strap, in case you want things to be even more sportive.

The green dial has a beautiful hue, but what stands out most is how well-organized and legible the dial is. It is not overcrowded, in part also because Piaget opted to show the phases of the moon through a smaller window. This not only works well in terms of legibility but also has a slightly more technical look to it, making it perfectly aligned with the rest of this timepiece.

Piaget added the word ultra-slim to the name of this Polo and makes due on that promise with caliber 1255P. This is, in essence, automatic caliber 1200P, which the brand launched in 2010, with an added module for the perpetual calendar functions. This brings the overall height of the movement to an impressive 4mm. While this is not record-breaking, it comes with a few advantages. One of them is that its price also isn’t record-breaking and that within this 4mm of height, Piaget found the perfect balance between reliability and slenderness. With an overall height of 8.65mm, the brand has created a very desirable perpetual calendar with a casual chique appearance.

Pricing for the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is marked at $58,500.

For more info, visit Piaget, here

Let’s begin with the three limited edition watches, starting with the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black. Limited to 30 pieces, this is a blacked out take on what is a very underrated piece of watchmaking. With a peripheral rotor and a tourbillon mounted with a peripheral cage, this watch really is like none other out there. The peripheral rotor lends the advantages of an automatic movement but without the thickness or visual distraction of a typical rotor while the peripheral cage makes the tourbillon appear to almost be floating in thin air. Like the standard model, it is outfitted with the COSC-certified CFB T3000 automatic movement that has a 65-hour power reserve. The forged carbon case with titanium container measures 43.1mm wide and 12.3mm thick, with the watch coming on a hybrid rubber strap with “carbon texture” and a DLC-coated titanium and steel buckle.

Next is the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black which is limited to 88 pieces and comes in a forged carbon case with titanium container. The COSC-certified CFB A2055 manufacture caliber has a 55-hour power reserve for its perpetual calendar and moon phase which is done in aventurine with two hand-engraved white gold moons. Measuring 41.6mm wide and 12.49mm thick, this watch comes on a hybrid rubber strap with “Milky Way” texture and quick release system as well as a DLC-coated titanium and steel buckle. 

The third limited edition watch is the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black which is limited to 188 pieces and is the final piece to come in the forged carbon and titanium container case. With that recognizable big date aperture at 11 o’clock and day aperture at 9 o’clock, it looks particularly neat and clean with the black and white monochromatic color scheme. It is outfitted with the COSC-certified CFB A2011 manufacture caliber movement with 65-hour power reserve which you can keep track of with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Measuring 41.6mm wide and 12.82mm thick, this watch also comes  on a hybrid rubber strap with “carbon texture” and a DLC-coated titanium and steel buckle.

Finally, we have the two non-limited pieces that are each done in black DLC coated cases with deep black matte lacquered dials. First is the Manero Flyback Black, a blacked out take on one of Carl F. Bucherer’s most popular watches. The CFB 1970 caliber has a 42-hour power reserve with the flyback chronograph function serving as its calling card for years. Done in a 43mm wide and 14.45mm thick case, the Manero Flyback Black comes on a hybrid rubber strap with “Milky Way” texture and quick release system as well as a DLC-coated titanium and steel buckle.

Second is the new Heritage BiCompax Annual Black which is outfitted with the CFB 1972 caliber with 42-hour power reserve. Housed in a 41mm wide and 14.15mm thick case, it comes on a hybrid rubber strap with Cloud de Paris texture and a quick release system with DLC-coated titanium and steel clasp.

This blacked out Carl F. Bucherer capsule collection marks the beginning of an important year for the brand both in recognizing its history as well as setting the tone for what the rest of 2023 holds. The Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black (ref. 00.10920.16.33.01) is limited to 30 pieces with a price of $60,900, the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black (ref. 00.10916.16.33.01) is limited to 88 pieces with a price of $36,700, and the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black (ref. 00.10926.16.33.01) is limited to 188 pieces with a price of $22,900. The non-limited Manero Flyback Black (ref. 00.10919.12.33.01) is priced at $8,100 and the Heritage BiCompax Annual Black (ref. 00.10803.12.32.01) is priced at $8,800.

To learn more, visit Carl F. Buchere, here.